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一套得體的西裝，是男人不可或缺的裝備。有品位的男士聚在一起，很多時(shí)候都會(huì)討論到自己身上的西裝穿著如何。
A well tailored suit is an integral part of a man's gear. Men of good taste get together, and many times they talk about how they wear their suits.
為了簡(jiǎn)化問題，假設(shè)你預(yù)算有限，且僅打算定做一件西裝，它要承擔(dān)大多數(shù)社交功能，伴隨你出差旅行，參加公司會(huì)議，面試，婚禮等等，以下按照做工、面料、款式三大塊，聽我慢慢道來，內(nèi)容里面有個(gè)人經(jīng)驗(yàn)，也有裁縫的意見。
In order to simplify the problem, if your budget is limited, and only to a custom-made suit, it takes most of the social function, accompany you to travel, to participate in the company meeting, interview, wedding and so on, in accordance with the following three pieces of fabric, workmanship, style, road to listen to me slowly, the content inside the personal experience, also have a tailor the views of.
1、全定制、套碼
1, fully customized, sets of yards
全定制（Bespoke）就是“一人一版”，根據(jù)客戶的身體數(shù)據(jù)和款式選擇，來全新地制版，以倫敦薩維爾街為出名。全定制在款式選擇上給予客戶很多選擇空間，同時(shí)也要求你對(duì)定制有所了解，以便適當(dāng)?shù)刂笓]裁縫。國外著名定制店甚至形成“house style”，也就是他們自己的版型。這種版型，更接近于一種“缺省設(shè)置”或“默認(rèn)模板”。
Fully customized (Bespoke) is a "one person edition", according to the customer's body data and style choice to make a new plate, the London Saville street is the most famous. Full customization gives customers a lot of choice in style choices, and also requires you to know something about tailoring so that you can tailor the tailor to the right place. Foreign famous custom shops even form "house style", that is, their own version. This version is closer to either a default setting or a default template".
濟(jì)南職業(yè)裝http://www.820691.com/A&S是倫敦薩維爾街上的名店，客戶包括查爾斯王子、舞蹈家阿斯泰爾等眾多名流。在他家訂制一件西裝，必須經(jīng)過至少27次不同身體部位的量體，50個(gè)工時(shí)的全手工制作，1：1的切片剪裁，不少于3次試衣。阿斯泰爾經(jīng)典的試衣，莫過于在A&S，讓工人把地毯卷起，然后在硬木地板上跳舞。跳躍而起時(shí)，西裝領(lǐng)子還在脖子上。A&S所代表了全定制西裝的巔峰水平。
Pictured above is Anderson & Sheppard, chief engineer, at work. A&S is the London Saville street shops, customers include Prince Charles, Astaire and many other celebrities. To order a suit in his house, you must pass at least 27 different body parts, 50 hours manual, 1:1 cut, no less than 3 fitting. Astaire's classic dressing is no more than A&S, where workers roll up carpets and dance on hardwood floors. When jumping up, the collar of the suit was still around the neck. A&S represents the peak level of fully tailored suits.
坦白說，在國內(nèi)很難尋覓薩維爾街那種級(jí)別的全定制，許多店鋪介于全定制和套碼，其中也有不少高手名店。比起薩維爾街，對(duì)面料的理解，對(duì)版型的運(yùn)用自如，對(duì)各種服裝款式的掌握，國內(nèi)裁縫還有待提高。

Frankly, it is difficult to find in the domestic full custom that Saville street level, many shops between the full custom and code, which also has a lot of famous master. Compared to Saville street, on the understanding of the fabric, version type has various clothing styles to grasp, still need to improve domestic tailor.
套碼，就是MTM，這也是一種定制，但是不夠完全，只能調(diào)節(jié)一部分?jǐn)?shù)據(jù)，通常在國外，套碼的價(jià)格要比全定制低不少。在和裁縫交流時(shí)，一定要問清楚他們的定制屬于哪種類型。
Sets of code, that is, MTM, which is also a custom, but not complete, can only adjust part of the data, usually in foreign countries, sets of yards than the full price of a lot of customization. When communicating with a tailor, be sure to ask what type of customization they have.
2、全麻襯、半麻襯、粘合襯
2, general anesthesia lining, half linen lining, adhesive lining
和世界上大多數(shù)有結(jié)構(gòu)的產(chǎn)品一樣，西裝的成本和壽命主要取決于其制作方式：全麻襯、半麻襯、粘合襯，以及手工或機(jī)器制作。全麻襯是將胸襯用針線覆蓋在整個(gè)胸部前片面料上。粘合襯是用膠水將胸襯粘在面料的背面。半襯是只在胸片上半部分有襯，介乎亮前兩者之間。不同的結(jié)構(gòu)在做工費(fèi)時(shí)和成本上差別較大。
Like most of the world's structured products, the cost and longevity of the suits depend mainly on the way they are made: general anesthesia, semi linen lining, adhesive lining, and hand or machine production. The general anesthesia is to cover the lining of the chest with a needle thread on the front sheet of the whole chest. The adhesive lining is used to glue the lining to the back of the fabric. The half lining is only on the upper part of the chest X-ray. It is between the front and the back. Different structures differ greatly in time and cost of workmanship.
以上從左到右：馬尾襯，定型馬尾襯，毛襯，黑色粘合襯。在制作難度上，全襯西裝是早期做法，也是西方大多數(shù)定制公司的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)做法，難度極大。粘合襯常見于廉價(jià)成衣。由于薄料子容易皺，襯的作用，在于為上衣胸片提供一定的“形”，造成挺拔垂感的效果。全麻襯和半麻襯是通過針線和面料縫在一起的，因此不可能有氣泡現(xiàn)象，也不影響面料本身的垂墜感。
Above left to right: horsetail lining, Shaped Pony Tail lining, hair lining, black adhesive lining. On the difficulty of making it, it was an early practice and a standard practice for most Western custom companies, and it was extremely difficult. Adhesive lining is often found in cheap clothing. Because the thin material is easy to wrinkle, the role of the lining is to provide a certain shape for the chest X-ray, resulting in the effect of upright and vertical feeling. The general anesthesia lining and the semi linen lining are sewn together with sewing thread and fabric, so it is impossible to have bubble phenomenon, and it does not affect the sag of the fabric itself.